Mae Hong Son Loop – 5 Day Motorbike tour
By Pete | Feb 2022
Choosing a motorcycle in Chiang Mai
While doing research for our own trip, we discovered an informative and detailed blog by Cat Motors, a motorcycle rental shop based in Chiang Mai. In their blog they cover many interesting points of interest along the Mae Hong Son Loop, they also have additional places to visit off the main loop, which without finding their blog, we would not have found on our own.
Based within the south-west corner of the old town in Chiang Mai, they have many quality Scooters and Motorcycles for rent. We recommend you check out Cat Motors blog, after reading ours first of course.
When choosing a motorcycle we knew from experience that bigger was best, it had to fit both of us on, a large backpack with lots of camera equipment whilst managing all the steep hills and many bends.
We wanted something that could handle all roads in front of it. So we chose the Honda CRF250 Rallye edition, Cat Motors also had a large selection of crash helmets that fit all sizes. They also had new ones you could rent at an additional cost, Another essential was the bungee straps that kept our backpacksafe on our adventure.
Safety doesn’t happen by accident..
As boring as it sounds SAFETY is one of the most important factors for any motorbike, trip let alone an epic journey of a lifetime. When riding for hours and hours around tough terrain and roads, fatigue can set in leaving you open for mistakes and unfortunately accidents.
Thailand does rank number one as the most motorcyclists killed on the road every year, so do bear that in mind.
Our advice would be only do this trip if you have the required experience or training
Top Tip
If you are from the UK we offer CBT (certificate of basic training) this only takes a day to complete, and although it doesn’t make you aware of the way Thai roads work, it will give you a few skills to start off with.
For those of you not from the UK try to look into other forms of basic training as it really is quite necessary, this isn’t a little trip around Koh Phangan!
Maybe you don’t have time to get your training in before your trip, below is a link where you can book some training at the best school in Chiang Mai.
https://catmotors.net/training/
We have done quite a few of these trips now in various countries and this was be the third in Thailand. We will soon be doing a blog on our time on the Hai Giang loop in Vietnam, so look out for that!
What route to take for the Mae Hong Son Loop
There are a few things to factor in when planning a motorbike trip like this, weather being one of them.
If you are planning to complete the loop on two wheels, we would suggest that you plan to visit in the dry months of November to February, with over 1800 bends, safety should always be your first consideration.
That being said we did experience some wet weather on the last leg of our journey. We like to use a weather tracking app such as Windy, to give us up to the minute detail.
Which direction to take?
The next consideration would be that being a loop, do you set off on a clockwise or anti-clockwise direction?
We recommend keeping your decision quite loose and not booking all your accommodation ahead of time, maybe leave it to the night before if you can. If you are an organised person, this may freak you out, but hear us out.
Check the weather for Doi Inthanon summit, being the highest point in the whole of Thailand, visibility is going to be very important. If the weather is clear, head straight for Doi Inthanon and enjoy the views from the two Pagodas and the summit itself, then proceed clockwise round the loop.
If visibility is bad, head straight to Pai, and cross your fingers that Doi Inthanon will be clear on your way back.
Chiang Mai to Pai | Day 1
Having landed in Chiang Mai the day before we already had our motorbike ready to set off nice and early in the morning. We stayed at the very friendly and reasonable priced I Lanna House in Chiang Mai, which also happens to be around the corner from Cat Motors. They were kind enough to look after two of our backpacks for the 5 days while we were travelling, as we intended to stay with them one more night on our way back to Chiang Mai.
The journey from Chiang Mai to Pai should take you around 3 hours, not taking into consideration rest stops and viewpoints. On our first day we decided to take it easy, setting off about 9am and planning a stop at Mok Fa Waterfall on our way to Pai.
Mok Fa Waterfall
Mok Fa is a beautiful 60 meter tall, single cascade waterfall and only a 10 minute stroll away from the carpark, is definitely a good excuse to stretch your legs after the first stretch of your ride. We stayed for around 30 minutes, taking pictures and enjoying the scenery. On the way out we passed Pankled Coffee shop so decided to stop for an iced coffee before setting off again.
Kong Gnam Viewpoint
The next leg of the journey you will really start to appreciate just how many twists and turns there are on the Mae Hong Son Loop.
Kong Gnam viewpoint is a beautiful pitstop with far reaching views, it’s a perfect point to stop on the way to Pai for your first proper glimpse of incredible views.
Pai
We booked a place to stay on booking.com the morning the we checked out of Chiang Mai. After riding for nearly 3 hours we were glad of having somewhere to drop our bag off and freshen up before setting out to explore Pai for the rest of the afternoon.
There are many things to do in Pai and if you haven’t visited before, you can see why travellers settle down and make base for extended periods. The hippy vibe of Pai hits you as soon as you arrive, with many veggie/vegan cafes and reggae bars to choose from, you can relax and slow the pace down for the evening.
With limited time, we decided to choose a few things to do in Pai that interested us both.
Big Buddha Pai
For a fantastic view of Pai, climb the 353 white stairs to the top platform beneath this huge white buddha that looks over the entire town.
With the hot sun beating down, we chose to go mid afternoon, however many tourists find this is a hugely popular spot in Pai to watch the sun setting.
Pai Canyon
It was here that we decided to sit and take in the setting sun over the hills surrounding Pai, along with a few other tourists. The winding sandstone paths on top of the canyon give you several vantage points of the view, some being a little bit more risky to get to than others.
With steep drops and narrow walkways, this may not be for everyone’s taste.
Park in the small car park and climb the hill to the top, if you don’t have the nerve to walk the canyon paths, fear not there is plenty of space for you to enjoy the surroundings.
Yun Lai
Yun Lai is a popular viewpoint among tourists in Pai to watch the sunrise. It can get pretty crowded on the bamboo viewing platform, and if you aren’t one for crowds, early morning or not, have a wander below for a more solitary spot.
Plus point there is a cafe attached to the Yun Lin viewpoint, so grab yourself a morning coffee as a reward for getting yourself up before the sun.
Kho Kuu So Bamboo Bridge
Before we set off for a day of riding we decided to visit one last attraction on the outskirts of Pai. Kho Kuu So Bamboo Bridge winds it way over rice fields towards a peaceful temple shaded by trees. Having never visited a bamboo bridge before we were pleased to find we were one couple of only a few visitors that morning. Listen to the bamboo walkway creak under you as you pass by oxen chomping in the fields, with the distant sound of cowbells clanging in the background. It was a relaxing spot and well worth the visit despite the slight detour back on ourselves.
Pai To Ban Rak Thai | Day 2
Having seen the incredible images of Ban Rak Thai on Instagram, we decided it was worth adding extra miles to the loop as we had to see this place for ourselves.
We would highly recommend visiting, as it was our favourite place we visited on the Mae Hong Son loop.
This leg of the journey should take to 3 hours without stopping, but you will want to pause for leg stretches and refreshments at a few places on route.
Doi Kiew Lom Viewpoint
A perfect stopping point to grab some food and rest. After winding up and up for 30 minutes, you’ll be greeted with two spectacular views straddling both sides of the road. We spotted a lady with a BBQ and decided to get ourselves a little picnic of snacks.
Ja Bo Coffee
Again another spot we had seen on Insta, we took a short detour off route to visit this spot for a much needed rest stop. Ja Bo Coffee is on of a few coffee shops with bamboo flooring suspended on the edge of an absolutely incredible view, the coffee was pretty great too.
Ban Rak Thai
We really do urge you to visit this isolated village, nestled right on the border of Myanmar. Ban Rak Thai, meaning Thai loving people, is home to a small village of Chinese settlers, having made it their home during the communist takeover in China.
The village is built around a small lake, with some hotels and guest houses for tourists. There were some touristy aspects like the boat rides and prop hire for photo opportunities, but don’t let that put you off, overall we felt really welcomed by the community.
We couldn’t get a reservation at the hugely popular Lee Wine Ruk Resort, nevertheless we wandered around the highly manicured grounds for photos of the setting sun over the village.
For dinner that night, we chose to have a meal in the Lee Wine Ruk restaurant which overlooks the lake. We tried the different teas that they had for sale in their adjoining shop and soaked up the lively atmosphere. We tried the Hui-Chiang pork meatball in clear soup, stir-fried water spinach and the fried Mantou with condensed milk which were all delicious.
In the morning, get yourself down to the edge of the lake before sunrise. Here you will be greeted with a magical scene of floating fog, beautiful skies and the sounds of a village coming to life for the day, grab yourself a coffee and soak it all in.
Must Read – 7 Best Photography Spots In Bangkok
Ban Rak Thai to Mae Hong Son | Day 3
Sad to leave Ban Rak Thai, we filled up on a delicious Chinese buffet breakfast and headed for Mae Hong Son. The short detour off the main loop is a beautiful ride through pine forests and on winding roads, you’ll pass rice fields and small villages.
Back on the Mae Hong Son we headed for its name’s sake, it’s a short and pleasant leg of the journey, so decided to head to a near-by Karen Village on route before checking in to our hotel.
Nai Soi Long Neck Karen Village
I first heard about the long neck tribe about ten years ago on my first trip to northern Thailand but never got round to visiting.
A few years later I ended up in Myanmar and was taken to a small village, which left me with more unanswered questions and a few photos that I felt awkward taking.
Although the local tribe were very welcoming and willing to show us their traditional way of life, that being said, I felt like maybe I shouldn’t have been there. They are people, and you read a lot of things like it’s a “human zoo” and “they don’t want tourists visiting etc.”. I felt as though I was brought in by a guide just for one reason and that was money.
As I have got a little older I can reflect on it, and maybe I didn’t ask enough questions to find out a little more about them for myself. After changing my mind 101 times on visiting a tribe in Thailand, I did more research and watched a beautiful short film by a friend Marko. As soon as did, I felt as though I wanted to stop at their village, say hello and to buy a few items to try and help them out.
We didn’t want to stay too long as we felt it may have been wrong during these times with covid (just to add to the indecisive mind). We have been very careful and wore masks and kept at a respectful distance to everyone during our trip so we felt we wouldn’t be putting them at risk.
My thoughts after I visited
Although our visit was brief we were welcomed with smiles and instantly felt much better for saying hello, we had a little walk through the village and talked with ladies and children as we passed, we saw the village school and the kids playing nicely together. We stopped at one or two stalls to buy a couple of items for the house and to give some money to the locals. We bought a hand made bell for our front door from the lady in the photograph below, it’s a lovely reminder of our visit.
Here is a link to a blog made by Marko touching on the same subject although a different tribe in northern Thailand.
https://www.markorandelovic.com/blog/a-complete-behind-the-scenes-of-kayan-beyond-the-rings
If you have not seen Marko’s work I’ve dropped a link to his website and instagram below so make sure you go and check out his work as its absolutely breathtaking. Hopefully one day we can create a documentary together 😉
Wat Phrathat Doi Kongmu
Looking for places for sunset in Mae Hong Son, we chose to ride up to Wat Phrathat Doi Kongmu, built in 1860 the white washed stupa sits atop the Doi Klong Mu hilltop with a great vantage point of the surrounding hills and town.
Wat Chong Kam
Another ancient temple, this is built in the Burmese style and looks most beautiful at night. Built beside a lake the best vantage point is opposite so that the perfectly lit stupa reflects in the water below.
Nong Chong Kham Public Park
We were fortunate enough to be visiting in February when the town hosts its annual event for the Muang Sam Mork, Winter Fair. Local dishes from various organisations and departments are on offer along with handmade items and performances from the surrounding hill tribes. There was a fun party atmosphere and was a welcome surprise in a town which on first appearances seemed to be fairly unremarkable.
Mae Hong Son to Doi Inthanon | Day 4
This last leg of the journey was probably going to be the longest part, and due to time constraints, we could not break this up in another town along the way.
Doi Inthanon is the highest peak in Thailand, and we were pretty excited to see the view from the top. Unfortunately, on this occasion the weather was not on our side on this particular day. Dodging showers all day we made it to the base of the mountain, only to be met by mist and fine mizzle. Nether the less it was worth the ride up as we made it to the two pagodas and their beautiful memorial gardens.
From Mae Hong Son to the summit of Doi Inthanon it will take you just over 4 hours, but obviously with stops it will take you much longer.
Pha Bong Viewpoint
After being in a town for half a day you can quickly forget that there are stunning views from the side of a winding road only a few miles out of town. The Pha Bong View point is a popular stopping point for entering and exiting Mae Hong Son town. The views are fantastic and there is a well stocked coffee shop there.
On arriving we realised we made a stupid mistake and forgot to re-fuel before leaving. After some Google Translate conversation, the very kind young lady working in the coffee shop escorted us and our near empty bike to her local village a mile away. We are never disappointed when visiting Asia by the overwhelming kindness of strangers.
Thai-Japan Friendship Memorial Hall
The town of Khum Yuam is where you will turn off to head for Doi Inthanon National Park, we decided to stick around for 30 minutes and visit the Thai-Japan Friendship Memorial Hall.
The museum tour will start with a short film about the relationship between Japanese soldiers and the local people of Thailand during WWII. Having stationed a Japanese military base in the town, friendships, business and even romances between soldiers and local women flourished during these times. The museum displays artifacts from the war, as well as a history on the daily lives of the Thai people before, during and after the war ended.
Thung Bua Tong Fields at Doi Mae U Kho
The sunflower fields of this region attract hundreds of visitors in mid-November when they are in full bloom, and from looking at the pictures online it looks spectacular. Passing by in February we knew we would not be able to witness the fields in bloom but still decided to take the detour off our main route to see the fields for ourselves. Arriving under dubious looking dark clouds we sat and enjoyed our packed lunch with the entire view to ourselves.
Doi Inthanon Summit and the Two Pagodas
We were gutted that our visit coincided with a day of poor visibility, and decided to head to our accommodation in a village further along the route.
As I said at the beginning, please check the weather before you set off from Chiang Mai, because if it is clear, I’m sure the view up on the top is worth keeping your options open for.
At 2565m above sea level it is the highest peak in Thailand, and on a clear day you will have views of the surrounding mountain ranges.
The Two Pagodas
Sitting just below the summit Pra Mahatat Noppamethanedon and Pra Mahatat Nopphonphusiri were built in honour of King Bhumibol and Queen Sirikit’s 60th Birthdays in the late 1980’s. The Chedi are close to one another, both with impressive views of the Doi Inthanon National Park. The gardens surrounding the monuments are beautifully landscaped and made us feel quite at home as we felt they resembled a quaint English country garden (with our wet weather and cold temperature to match).
Doi Inthanon to Chiang Mai | Day 5
There are many things to do in Doi Inthanon National Park, but we had a flight pre-booked to Bangkok for the following morning so were forced to head back early.
Although we were not able to explore the National Park, there are many hiking trails to let you stretch your legs after being on a bike for 4 days. Heading back to Chiang Mai we decided to try to squeeze in a few tourist spots and try some local delicacies
9 Siblings Restaurant
Looking to re-energise after our long trip, we set off for lunch at a restaurant close by to our guest house. Pete was hoping to find somewhere that served Khao Soi, a northern Thai dish, 9 Siblings Restaurant seem to only make this dish, and it did not disappoint. The restaurant sits within the walls of old city, run by a super friendly family, Pete’s Chicken Khao Soi arrived with a smile.
Khao Soi is a rich and creamy yellow curry, topped with tender braised meat and crunchy fried noodles. It is typically served in the early part of the day, so avoid disappointment as you won’t find many places that serve it for dinner.
Wat Chedi Luang
With many temples to visit in the Chiang Mai area, you can find yourself having a day full of visiting Wats.
We chose to visit Wat Chedi Luang, as neither of us had visited this site before.
The temple construction began in the 14th century in the traditional Lanna style, having once housed the famous Emerald Buddha it is an interesting site steeped in history.
We were lucky enough to get chatting to a carpenter involved in the ongoing care and restoration of the surrounding buildings, who was knowledgeable and proud to share his country’s history with us.
Wua Lai Walking Street
If you have been to Thailand before you will have heard of numerous walking streets in locations all over the country. The Wua Lai Walking Street had recently opened after the pandemic and access by vaccinated people only was strictly adhered to. The half mile stretch of road is closed to traffic as food stalls and local vendors line the streets, we sampled spare ribs and the obligatory sticky rice with mango from the street food stalls while browsing for souvenirs.
Onto the next adventure
We really enjoy the freedom that comes along with a motorbike tour, and this particular trip felt extra special. After the elation of completing the enormous Ha Giang Loop in Vietnam back in January 2020, Covid hit and we had two years of longing to return to the Asian roads, off the tourist trail and into the real country.
On our return to Chiang Mai, we felt like a chapter had been closed and that that sense of freedom that comes with travel, that we had all lost for a while had returned.
We often talk about the next motorbike journey we would like to do next, and are always looking for recommendations.
We would love to hear of any great adventures you have had out on the roads.
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